Mr. Fix-it (Handyman)

Mr. Fix-it is an off site advice hotline for maintenance issues he will only ask you to describe your issue and help work through the issue as if on the phone

First is the fan running when the inside thermostat is turned on? if its not the problem will most likely be in the side panel! if it is running listen for the compressor if you don't hear it check the compressor check the large capacitor and internal plug, if you do then check coolant and inside at the intake, if the fan isn't running which is the most common issue check the side panel and press in the contactor ants usually clog the switch it can be cleaned with small wire make sure to treat around the area with raid ant spray and ant bait, if pressing the contractor doesn't turn the fan on check the wires with a multimeter, if you push in the contactor and it still doesn't work you need to check the CAPACITORS next most are a single dual run capacitor but in some cases there are 2 the small one is for the fan and larger one is for the compressor, unplug and discharge both and test the resistance with an OHM meterr

If nothing outside with the condenser unit is wrong it's one to move inside! first check the float switch when this is active it will shut off A/C unit this will be clear if the central air starts to leak water as it's drainpan could be full, use a shop vac to suck the water from the drainpan and then on the drain line to clear out blockage you can also use compressed air to attempt to clear blockage if the drain pan is indeed empty next test the breaks of both inside and outside boxes to make sure there is no faulty breakers these should be 60 dual amp breakers near the top and should measure 120v per side 240 in total! (rarely the capacitor inside on the intake will rupture and that'll cause oil to pour from it while rare keep an eye out for the inside capacitor, this should be the very last thing checked as a final option)

Mr. fix-it will diagnosed as you step by step by asking small questions bilding up to what the issue could be, he will ask the small statements such "is the fan running when it's on?" or "do you hear the compressor?"

First shut the water off to the are or even the house if needed, now where is the leak at? what kind of pipe is it? copper or PVC? is it hot or cold water? (working on pvc you need, ratcheting pipe cutters, PVC primer or cleaner, PVC cement, with the right couplings and 90 angles needed with a strait pipe of the proper size) (working on copper you need a copper shark bite kit that connects copper and a rotating pipe cutters and a deboring tool)

most issues are with the fill valve or toilet flap, changing the flap will rule that out quick it's easy and cheap. if still running change the valve. if the new style it takes only 10 seconds to switch but off not you need change the stem in all, need to shut the water off and undo the waterline make sure the seal doesn't come free and empty the tank into a bucket and install the new flush valve seals included

Wet Drywall - cut all parts with heavy water damage and mold out, treat infected area with mold killer and make sure the leak has stopped and replace the sheet of drywall using drywall tape and mud sand it down and paint it texture if needed. Hole repair - cut a small section around the hold out then cut the same shape on a new price of drywall put a piece of wood in the hole screwing it into both the sides of the non damaged drywall then replace the hole with the new peice screwing it into the newly placed wood on the inside of the hole now use drywall tape and mud to finish the repair then sand and paint when done. texturing is difficult but there are a few kinds, the texture that comes in a spray can is the easiest to use but they have some texture you can mix into your paint, just add texture till it blents the wall then wait for it to dry sand a little then paint, mud and caulking can fix small cracks in drywall of any kind caulking helps with wall shifting preventing cracks

Your electrical outlet is out? is it 120 or 240? the first thing to do would be to find the inside breaker box and check if the breaker is tripped this can be done at a glance it's tripped of the breaker is half way off simply turn it off and back on! no breakers were tripped? alright go back to the outlet and let's take that face cover off, after that check to see the wires are indeed connected to the screws black on gold white on silver and copper on green, if everything is connected test the screws with a multimeter and see if it reads 120. if so the only thing left is to replace the outlet itself

to wire a room we start with one 12/2 wire. run one going from the main box outside the house or inside if a trailer or big residence. is the drywall up yet? if the drywall is not up this is very easy just run the wire threw the 2/4" about 20 inches from the floor make your outlets at 16 inches, run the wires up to a box on top of the room in the attic. if the drywall is up already your gonna need to use electrical tape and make the old wire as skinny as you can and join it with the new wire and pull it up from the attic to the newly placed box you may have to use glowrods of the wire breaks drilling holes going down from the attack into the space between the walls this is a very skilled process and can easily cause damage to the ceiling BE CARFUL, after pulling the new wire with the old wire run it to the new box then with one wire run it all the way back to the main box. finally finish with a 20 amp breaker about 5-6 plugs per room

what are you installing an outlet for? Dryer and washer: washer takes a basic 120v house plug with a wide 30amp breaker, the dryer needs a bigger 10/3 wire (it's orange) with a 60amp dual breaker the outlet is a Flush Mount Range Outlet for dryers the red and black are wired on into the sides with the ground on top and neutral on bottom. a water heater uses 10/3 (orange wire) this is wired directly into the appliance from the top but warning DO NOT turn it on without it full of water you will destroy the element! the water heater can be run through a shut off but most are wired directly to the box with a 30 amp duel breaker.

you need a dedicated plug for bigger things or you run the risk of tripping and setting dire to out can you run a wire in the wall? if you can't then your gonna need 12/2 insolated for outdoor use wire (it's grey) run this wire from the main box on a 20amp breaker to the desired place and either come from under the house or from outside the wall in electrical PVC then install like a normal outlet. if you can go through the walls run a wire from the main box through the attic down the wall with a glow rod and treat as a normal outlet and mark it somehow

First unplug it and use a flash light to make sure it's clear inside. next plug it back in, Does the garbage disposal turn on? if not press the reset button on the bottom and listen again if still no check the plug to make sure it's at 120v if it is you may need to replace the disposal . if it does come on and just makes a buzzing sound turn it back off and get an Allen key the size of a drill bit and use it to free the blades from the bottom then turn it back on to check if they are free. if its leaking from the bottom it's gone, and it needs to be replaced. to clean a garbage disposal use warm water with ice and soap in the garbage disposal while on. to replace one no tool is needed besides a flat head screwdriver the most important thing is to make sure you remove the drainage cap but it's very straightforward it's twist on gasket may take a little force to get it off and on. to wire a garbage disposal you need to take a plug and break the bridge between the top and bottom the top would go to a dishwasher and the bottom the disposal it's very important to remember the difference between them as one will be activated by a switch, now wire the plug normally but with the bottom having a switch attached

NEVER HAVE THE WATER HEATER ON WITNOUT POWER: what's the water heater doing? Water heaters will trip when reaching 180F make sure to lower it if it continues to trip this could indicate buildup inside the tank. resetting a tripped water heater will always be temporary and it definitely foreshadows a larger issue. all waterheaters need to be wired with 10/3 (orange wire) and with a dual 30 amp breaker, it is wired directly to the water heater at 240v no outlet but a shutoff can be added. if its not running at all take the panel off and check that it is indeed receiving 240v to eliminate the wiring, next check the element it's easier then the thermostat and more often the problem, I'll walk you through it, you need a multimeter, a resident philips screwdriver, and insolated pillars. next make sure all power is now off and disconnect the wires, next set your multimeter to continuity mode (horseshoe icon) put one lead on each screw it needs to read between 12-20 if it reads 0 it needs to be replaced check the top and bottom element. the thermostat is the last thing to check make sure to take a picture to not misplaced wires and disconnect the top 4 check the top and bottom on the left and then the right should read 0 if they don't it's broken on that same thermostat move down to the bottom part of it and test all possible connects on those 3 then test the bottom. replacing all the components is about $50 compared to a new water heater at$300 it's worth doing as a last resort.

a service is the meter can with the riser pole and weather head. this attaches directly to the panel box on the outside or can be on a pole with wires going to the panel box inside. if the service needs to be replaced the first thing you need to do is call the power company and have them shut off and disconnect your wires. putting a service up requires a permit and a licensed electrician but if your out of city limits you can attempt to put one together yourself. the materials you will need is 30ft of 2ot wire and 15 feet of 1ot wire a 8ft galvanized metal 2 inch pole a weather head and the meter box. you might need some 2 inch electric connections such as a 2 inch offset and the rings to attach it. you will also need a grounding rod and copper wire to attach it to the meter can. first you need to put the meter can up then attach the pole to the top securing it with a few 2inch clamps to the pole or wall. next attach the wires from the panel box to the meter can the 1ot always goes in the middle with the 2ot on both the sides. then run the wire from the meter can up the pole and strip the bottom of the wire and attach it to the meter can in the same way after that attach the weather head and insert the wires leaving about 2ft of wire hanging from the top it's very simple to put together after that make sure all connections are tight then call the power company to attach the wires and install a meter hub to connect the power that should be all you need to do.